Jorge Pareja was born in
1971 in the southern Mexican state of Guerrero. Having emigrated
to the U.S. in 1989, Jorge still fondly recalls his upbringing in
the thriving farm community of Alpoyeca as an ideal example of people
living in harmony with the land.
High in the plains between mountains, or cañada,
cut by the river Tlapaneco, Alpoyeca has an excellent climate for
farming of all types. Protected from the heat of the long equatorial
days by the sheltering shade of the mountains, Alpoyeca has warm
days and cool nights. Jorge recalls life on his grandparents’ farm: “We
had the perfect conditions for growing any type of plant. In spring
and summer, we grew everything from corn, beans, tomatoes and chiles
to mango, melon and papaya. We would eat these foods right from the
plant. In winter, when the rains flooded the river, we grew rice.”
During the rainy winter, mountain streams, or barrancas,
would also flood, often altering the course of the river uncomfortably
close to towns alongside it. Jorge humorously recounts: “Every
year the people of each town hoped the barrancas on their side of
the river would flood first and direct the river away from their
town.” Fish were also plentiful, and fishing was part of life,
though as Jorge says: “Not with a pole, but with nets and spears.” Two
types of wild agave also flourished in the nearby hills and local
mountains; one is used to make rope, the other, for the native spirit,
mezcal.
Jorge and his brothers went to school in the morning
and worked the farm in the afternoon. His grounding in the culinary
arts began on the farm, tending the crops from planting to harvest,
as well as helping tend the livestock. Farm life in Alpoyeca left
a lasting impression on Jorge: “Ever since, I’ve always
had a tremendous respect for nature and her flavors.”
Jorge’s passion for cooking is also partly
genetic. He considers himself the latest in a long line of “natural
chefs” in his family. From his mother, Maria Gomez, he learned
the traditional methods of grinding and treating the dried corn used
to make masa dough. She then taught him her recipes in which masa
is used, from tamales and gorditas to empanadas and sopes. Another
of the family’s “natural chefs” is his grandmother,
Ruperta Ortiz. Her famous family recipe for chocolate, which she
uses for mole sauce as well as hot chocolate, involves toasting the
cocoa beans, hand grinding them with toasted sugar and cinnamon before
shaping them into tablets easily stored for later use.
Arriving in New York City in June of 1994, Jorge
established himself at Arizona 206, where his skills were recognized
and he rose through the ranks to sous chef. Two years later he was
given the opportunity to move to the Rocking Horse Café where
he was able to extend his range, and was promoted to chef de cuisine.
During this time Rocking Horse Café enjoyed critical acclaim.
Then, with the opening of Hell’s Kitchen, a new restaurant
in hell’s kitchen, Jorge was the natural choice. The vision
was to create a progressive Mexican menu. As chef de cuisine, his
variations on family recipes became the inspiration for menu items
and weekly specials. Jorge was able to hire and train the staff,
which included friends from his home town and work side by side with
them. Hell’s Kitchen garnered rave reviews from the local press
in addition to the Zagat’s survey.
Since taking charge as executive chef, Jorge’s
menus continue to inspire legions of devoted fans. His signature
creations, from his Sea Scallop Ceviche with Avocado and Radish Salsa
on a Guajillo Tostada, the Long Island Duck Breast with Sauteed Arugula
and Pineapple Mole, to his Charred Sirloin with Sweet Potato Fries
and Endive-Pasilla Sauce, satisfy the crowds that flock to Hell’s
Kitchen. The seasonally changing menus reflect his approach to food: “I
take everything I know about cooking, including my memories, and
combine them in every dish.” By creating dishes that highlight
traditional ingredients and methods of preparation in new and unique
ways, his cuisine appeals to people seeking both traditional tastes
and new experiences.