Food 17
Decor 18
Service 16
Cost $27
A "nice addition to the barrio", this new Hell's Kitchen Mexican
set in the "old Vynl space" purveys "cheap" traditional
street food in "small but filling" portions; the "crafty", "folkloric" furnishings
(e.g. the Corona bottle chandelier) make for a "cheery" vibe.
by Erin Behan - The Scene
An explosion of color brightens this corner restaurant to near sunglasses-at-night
proportions. With the multicolored checkered floor, wall of reflective Mexican
tchotchkes, and Jumex-inspired lighting, there's no lack of folksy whimsy.
To get in on the sunny disposition, follow the crowd of neighborhood office
workers and gay men: Order up an extra-strong margarita and bask in the glow.
The Food
The fresh, uncomplicated fare does justice to its street-food roots. A starter
of grilled corn on the cob, lightly covered with cheese and mayo, leads naturally
into smaller plates of tacos, empanadas, tostadas, tamales or quesadillas.
Hearty steak enchiladas go beyond Tex-Mex with the complex mole; for something
different, try the pork chilaquiles, a hefty bowl of thick tortilla strips,
roasted pork, and that spicy mole that's cooled by rich crema fresca. Extras
include a gratis table-top salsa that's creamier than most and smooth, just-spicy
guacamole that complements dishes like the crisped shrimp-stuffed flautas.